SNS Meets: Ben Gorham head
190215AP 8750 09
SNS Meets: Ben Gorham (BYREDO)

In our series 'SNS Meets', SNS’ own Mogge sat down with Ben Gorham, founder of famed Swedish perfume company and luxury house BYREDO. The Swedish Maverick, after a quick fine arts Uni detour found his place in the world of perfume and luxury fashion, where he made a name for him and his brand since the early days of 2006.

Read our interview below and check out Ben’s playlist curated exclusively for SNS.

SNS Meets: Ben Gorham
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SNS: Who is Ben Gorham? BG: I was born in Sweden, I lived here for twelve years, and then I moved to Canada. We came back to Stockholm for the holidays. My dad’s Canadian and my mom is from India. From the age of twelve I grew up in Toronto, and then I moved to New York to finish up high school. And my life, pretty much until I was 25, was about basketball. That was it, that was like my passion and my ambition, what I imagined myself doing for the rest of my life. You know as kids often do, with passionate sports activities.

SNS: As long as we’ve known you, you’ve always had an eye for trends and fashion. Where do you think that comes from? BG: I thought it was vanity for a very long time. I thought it was about like chasing girls, looking good because that was a big part of the identity for us kids in the streets back then. That was what we communicated around and music and basketball, these things kind of came together especially in the early ’90s. I didn’t realize then that the perspective I had on all these things could be applied to creating goods for other people. I do remember in [syslöjden] “sewing class” making those tied beanies for a bunch of the guys in our crew. Because initially when that hip hop wave came, you couldn’t get that stuff in Sweden. You had to make your own. I never sold them, but I do remember making stuff at an early age. That hip hop wave was so loud, and all the other stuff was in the peripheral. You never had time to reflect.

SNS: I have a vivid memory of you, 16 years old in a baby blue hoody and washed out baggy Guess jeans with a pair of white Reebok classics, thinking to myself that I could only buy one out of three items in Stockholm. BG: [laughs] I remember that outfit and I remember being a dreamer too. You know I was watching Michael Jordan on television when I was 8 and feeling that I was right there. I remember transcending away from the negativity some of us we grew up in our communities. Young kids were getting into drugs, crime, and alcohol at really young ages. I was able to stay away from all that in a mental way because I was always somewhere else.

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SNS: You had dreams of playing ball but ended up building a successful brand, can I get a recap of that journey in short? The highs and lows? BG: I think I’ve had a singular vision right through grade school, right through high school, right through college even. I left college my third year to go to Italy to play professionally. I couldn't get a European passport, so it didn’t work out. So I went to Germany and then back to Sweden, and basically, that career just ended for me because of many variables, but most of them were practical. I couldn't get the European passport that I needed so I couldn’t sign any contracts in Europe.

You could probably describe that as my lifetime low because it was shattered dreams. It was just that realization that the way I imagined things happening was not going to happen. But something exciting came out of that because it forced me into re-inventing this idea of who I was as a person and my capabilities. So from this very low place, I decided to move on and began thinking about what I could do, more as an identity more as an exercise of like… person and self-respect and confidence. It was less about career choices it was more about that I had lost a big part of myself.

I enrolled in Stockholm Art School where I did a year to explore creative medium because the only thing I felt, going to college and even high school was, that the only thing that REALLY woke me up was creative fields. So I did this very general course in arts which was in painting, photography, sculpture and art history and so on. At the end of that year, I’ve met a perfumer by chance. I didn’t even know that a perfumer was a job really at that point in time. I talked about the connection between memory and smell, and he seemed to convince me that all these things can be translated. That scent was this amazing, invisible but powerful medium that could evoke emotion, like the aesthetics of what I was trained in or what we lived in. So, I convinced this guy named Pierre to help me translate a few memories of these smells, and that’s where I started.

At the time I imagined perfume because it was accessible as a product and I imagined it was a good way to share these ideas, but it was also hugely an industrialized market which meant production was tricky, and the minimums were high, so I learned online how to make fragrance candles. I found a space out in Telefonplan by the art school, and I bought a water jacket melter that could melt the wax and made my own candles. During the evenings, nights and daytime I would try to sell them to different stores.

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SNS: I remember bumping into you during that time in the city. You gave me a small sample and left me thinking that it was a little bit unexpected, but I could clearly see that you had a purpose. BG: When I think about the contrast… It’s immense. When I think about who we were as kids and the way we saw the world versus the way we see it today it’s quite mind-blowing. Even for myself to be able to bridge I am incredibly grateful for that. It's just a level of awareness and confidence. Its nothing practical. When you talk about athletes, there’s a lot of stigma about athletes being jocks and only being able to do just one thing.

SNS: I wouldn’t say that you were the definition of a jock back then. You always seemed very driven. BG: Well, I think of some of my friends. Some of them went to the NBA some of them went to China, but you know getting into your mid-thirties that mental exercise of moving on is substantially harder. When I started this company I was dead broke. I was living on my friend’s Chicco’s couch, so I didn’t have anything to lose. Once you start a career and you financially get to a point, it’s a lot harder to sacrifice and go back to scratch.

SNS Meets: Ben Gorham block 4
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SNS: You have said that you started Byredo from a naïve place, what do you mean by that? BG: I think I had a creative idea. I know very little of anything associated with running a business or building a business and what it entails: Workwise, expertise, the people, the finances. When you say purpose driven, It was all about moving forward. I would consider myself relatively pragmatic because the last eleven years has been about solving problems and finding new ways to do things and navigating the route forward. But it was naïve in a sense that I didn’t have an idea of what I was getting myself into. It was just about the belief that creatively the work I was doing could be important and could relate to people.

SNS: What is the creative process behind a Byredo scent? Does it all stem from your initial ideas? BG: I still have the luxury to have a singular vision where this company is going creatively. Then I have 230 employees so, it is a machine, and beyond anything, I can do myself. But, creatively when it comes to fragrance I’m still putting together a brief, I’m still sitting with the perfumers in New York or Paris, and I’m still doing the campaigns, creating the narratives. Still don’t use focus groups, still, It smells exactly the way I want it to smell.

SNS: Does that vision go for all things under the umbrella Byredo? BG: I like beautiful things. I aspire to luxury. Fragrance and beauty became my entry because it was very little interesting stuff within that segment. I wanted to pivot the brand into multiple categories. I applied the same sensibility of developing a project over a long period of time, meticulously. I aspired to brands like Hermés and other luxury brands, and I realized that I couldn’t create their history but if I put in enough work, I could probably match a portion of their quality when it came to the product. At the same time, I felt that there was space for a brand in the luxury goods arena that had relevance and resonance to young people. So that was a focus it was not a prestige of that old heritage/luxury world. It was really about a new version of it.

SNS Meets: Ben Gorham block 5
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SNS: You went from standing on the outside looking in, to being a part of the fashion industry. BG: I would imagine, that's the way It seems. I think I’m still considered an outsider. I’m still a person that floats in and out of that system.

SNS: Really? BG: Yeah, because there’s this level of acceptance which I'm grateful for, but I live in Sweden purposely because of the lifestyle and the family life. Sweden is important because of the level of isolation. It gives me the ability to float in and out of the industry. It allows me to not be consumed by an industry or a context. That probably wouldn’t be possible if I was living in New York or Paris and was engaging in these industries and places actively. It has a tremendous function for me staying in Sweden. At the same time, I’m very grateful for the brand and my acceptance into the world of fashion and art that allows me to take part in the excitement and the inspirational aspect of that.

SNS: You're collaborating with major brands and personalities. How do you choose who to collaborate with? BG: So far I’ve collaborated with only friends, people I’ve met where you’re able to share some type of creative nerve. I can imagine interesting collaborative work with other people too.

SNS: Who or what inspires you and why? BG: Lots of people in a lot of ways… Young creative people doing stuff. Sneakersnstuff inspires me; these are people that I’ve known for 25 -30 years that are doing things on an international level. People in business. People in progression and in creative outputs. Street culture is a source of inspiration, craftsmanship is a great source of inspiration. I’m able to work with amazing craftsmen because of the nature of our business. I’m able to make things at a certain quality. It’s a blessing. Travel and culture can probably top the list. I’m still on and off airplanes and music is a source of inspiration.

SNS: How is the traveling lifestyle? I can imagine that it has to be straining at times? BG: From time to time it is, but I’ve learned to deal with it. I’ve learned how to deal with stress. I’ve understood the value of gratitude of me seeing these places and people when I travel. But yeah, Jetlag is jetlag. Flying from Miami to Shanghai for two days and then fly home and have to be a dad is tough. But it is also a blessing.

SNS Meets: Ben Gorham block 7
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SNS: What are your thoughts on the status of sneaker culture today? BG: I think emotionally this wasn’t for us. The idea of hype, this idea of sneaker culture as it exists today. That always existed it was just that our community was extremely small. It’s not a phenomenon. Now in terms of scale, it is fascinating. Of our generation its probably one of those really iconic products that tied together culture and unified people. I have thought the way it’s going, anything that grows too fast, has volatility in my opinion. Anything that becomes so outrages usually have an autocorrect. When you look at pricing and reselling, we are still talking about two big companies controlling the larger part of the market. I’d be more interested in seeing that shift over the next few years.

SNS: Do you consider yourself as a collector? BG: When I was younger I did. I probably represent that 90% of us that used to say – Yo, I have all that stuff! [laughs] That OG OG stuff! But no. I’ve gotten rid of sneakers in waves.

SNS: How big is your collection? BG: The collection is not that big… 50 to 100 pairs and now it’s pretty much focused on Jordan 1 and Air Force 1

SNS: Why is that? BG: Because I can't keep up I think it’s age [laughs], but within that, you could be the one that gets it all or you go in and get your slice and get that shoe that speaks to you and those two styles they’ve always been there for me. I got into Jordan round 4’s, 5’s?

SNS: What’s in your current weekly rotation? BG: Jordan 1 "Union", the blues. I’m still into Virgil’s last drop... Air Force 1’s, I like the black colorway, there is something about the iconic black. Then there are some fashion sneakers that are making it in n out in my rotation. The “Converse –style” Diors. The recognizability touches the sneaker culture.

The "Unions" The black Off-White Air Force 1’s The Converse-style Dior

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SNS: How important is music in your life? BG: I think it’s still important. It’s not as important as it used to be when we grew up but just like with sneakers you could know the words of every hot song. The share volume of music and artists on all streaming services nowadays is so much, so you’re forced to kind of edit there too. And then there’s also the thing of being a dad between the cartoons, homework, and activities that space doesn’t exist like it used to. So, traveling gives me that time to catch up on music and basketball games.

SNS: Top three albums or songs. BG: Nas – Illmatic, The Notorious B.I.G. – Ready to die, Wu-Tang Clan - Enter the Wu-Tang (36 Chambers)

SNS: I remember you telling me that you had met Biggie back in the day. BG: Yeah... I was in D.C. for Howard homecoming and… Wu was there, and the whole Bad Boy crew, Craig Mack and all these guys and I met this big guy, it turns out that it’s Biggie. I met him through RZA and Busta who was right there. It was a big deal at the time but as it turns out that he became one of our most iconic figures. Oddly enough I have the last living portrait of Biggie it was taken by the Swedish photographer Martina Haglund who was living in NYC. I would tell my daughters as they were growing up, that the man on the picture is their grandfather for many many years. [breaks out laughing]

SNS: Any of the new generation rappers on your playlists? BG: I like Travis. He’s a smart and talented dude. I like my guy, Drake. I would describe my time in Toronto like a lot of people would; Pre Drake. There’s really a before and after.

SNS: How was Toronto like Pre Drake? BG: It was exactly as he describes it in his songs. All those clubs, all those people, the west-Indian influence. It had it’s own juice completely. When I grew up black American culture, and hip hop was the aspiration. You would have guys in Canada not speaking like Canadians. Every year they had this Caribana festival at the end of summer you’d get tons of people that would come up from New York to party over the weekend. It took a while for Canada to be put on the map. I think basketball helped, the Raptors and obviously the artists, The Weeknd and Drake of course.

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SNS: What to look out for 2019? BG: We have a new bag collection coming, that’s showing in Paris for Women's Fashion Week. For the Fashion Week in June, we’re doing a project with the working title “Accolades” which is an exhibition relating to my past life as an athlete. Look out for that!

SNS: Meaning that it’s the end of that basketball chapter? BG: [laughs] I hope so. I haven’t played for 5-6 yrs, and it was a bitter ending for me because I ended my career at the peak. It’s something I’ve suppressed for many years, and I didn’t quite understand the public relevance of my past life. So this June I’m trying to embrace my past with a series of products and an installation that I’ll show at a gallery in Paris.

SNS: Thank you! BG: Thanks for having me!

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